Steak:10, Looks:3

NY Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni appears to have come out in an amusing review of a steakhouse located in a West Side titty bar. The review begins, "It may be laughable when someone says he gets Penthouse magazine for the articles. It’s no joke when I say I went to the Penthouse Executive Club for the steaks." The review gets cute when Bruni asks a club employee, named Mahogany, if she knows where she is going to. That joke is only funny to gay men over 40. (Just like the title of this post.) Does anybody know if Bruni was out before this review? (via- Aaron.)

UPDATE: Bruni's review is blowing up on the blogs. What I thought was cutesy, is apparently raging male chauvinist piggishness.